Makulay Lodge
My initial preference for an anniversary honeymoon is actually a 4-5 star hotel room with cozy bed and warm, fluffy comforters so I can just happily snuggle the whole day. But since we found out later on that overall expenses in El Nido can get way too pricey, and that most of our time El Nido will be spent outdoors anyway, Lou and I went for Makulay Lodge - one of the few BEACH FRONT accommodations that offer relatively low rates. And it wasn't so bad at all! For 4 days and 3 nights, Makulay served as our home away from home!
It just reminded me of my grandparents' old house, which has always been conducive to long naps! Oh, I haven't mentioned - It was 18 degrees C in El Nido that week (a temperature that's already super cold for me), that's why we just got a fan room. That, plus the beautiful view of the ocean, and the relaxing sound of waves, made everything homey I guess. Just on our first day -- since we didn't book tours nor anything that day -- I easily dozed off all afternoon. I woke up totally confused where in the world I am. Each sleep here gives me that kind of nice full reboot!
Another thing I love in this lodge is its LOCATION. While it seemed so far (as you have to walk about 10 minutes from the road to reach this), it's in a quiet, serene area without other resorts nor restaus nearby. With just a few steps, you'll find yourself in a shore decent enough for wading. And with just a few minutes of walk, you'll find good beach-front dining places, such as Bacuit Grill and El Nido Corner.
There are 4 cons though - 1) their unprofessional hand-written (and pricey) menu, 2) the noisy electric fan which we decided not to use (since it was cold anyway), 3) the harmless-yet-creepy gecko (TUKO) that never left our room, and 4) the lack of hot shower. If these things are workable for you then go for Makulay Lodge as we did. For 1200 per night I think that's not bad at all! :)
Nido Soup
Kali, one of the caretakers of Makulay, suggested Skyline restaurant for an authentic Nido Soup. For those who are not familiar with this yet, it's a soup made from birds' saliva, which birds themselves use in forming their nests ...that's why this soup is also called Bird's Nest Soup (Pugad ng Balinsasayaw in tagalog).
This soup is VERY expensive, because it's really hard to collect birds' saliva. Local harvesters have to climb rocks and dark caves for this, sometimes without using harness. Believe it or not, it costs approximately P100,000/$2000 per kilo when exported (WHAAAT?!), more or less depending on the "class" of the saliva (EHHH!?). That said, I really had to taste it! Good thing it's sold just for P200 in Skyline:
It seems cheap but seeing that Skyline is somewhat a carinderia, and that a bowl is good for just one person... that's actually pretty expensive. According to a waiter (from another restau), such bowls usually have just 1 sachet of the bird's nest! And my verdict....? Meh... It tastes like yet-another thick chicken soup, with tiny hard jellies. Will I buy it again? no. But am I happy that I tried this for once (and that it gives me an extra bragging right?!)? YES. hahaha!
Pearls, pearls, pearls!
This is my 3rd time in Palawan (1st was Puerto Princesa, 2nd was Coron) and as in the past visits, I didn't fail to get at least a pair of freshwater pearl earrings ....because being one of the few pearl havens in the country, Palawan can offer them at really low rates! As for El Nido, pearl shopping is a lot easier, because pearl vendors are everywhere, hopping from one resort to another!
Tip 1: To set pearls, most vendors here use sterling silver, or sometimes silver mixed with coins - not a good quality of metal in my opinion. So if you're particular with the type of metal they use for pearl settings - better to buy loose pearls and have them customized by your jeweler -- That's what I do.
Tip 2 (important): Don't be swayed when they tell you that the pearls are "south sea pearls". South sea pearls and freshwater pearls differ a lot when it comes to size, shape and luster. So, do the research first and really scrutinize before buying. Generally, South sea pearls are bigger and rounder, while freshwater pearls are smaller, off-round and cheaper (must cost just 3 digits at most). If you're looking for south sea pearls - better ask them if they do have it (but bring with you the good knowledge on how to judge pearls), or ask trusted sources -- like collectors or jewelers -- where you can get them in Palawan. I heard you can get them in Puerto Princesa -- but that's something I still have to research on! :)
Calle Hama
I LOVE Calle Hama - a road that has quiet pubs where you can drink and chillax, noisy bars where you can party, spas, souvenir shops, bike rentals, laundry shops, restaurants, diving equipment rentals, travel agencies, more hotels, everything! We never understood how a lot of tourists can stay here for weeks or even months ...till we explored this street. It's not over-commercialized yet it suits perfectly for the taste (and needs) of any kind of beach lover!
Tip: If you're travelling on a budget, explore this street, and other minor streets you find from here. Generally, restaurants here are a lot cheaper compared to beach-front ones. Here you'll also find small talipapa/markets where you can even buy fresh seafoods - It's a good option if you're staying in a place that allows cooking/grilling! Now here's another tip for foodies out there: Go for restaus where foreigners flock - they serve huge american-sized meals!
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A confession: Since I started traveling with my own money back in 2005, I really told myself that no matter how rich (OR POOR) I get, I'm going to save El Nido for a romantic trip with my husband -- whoever that is! Fast forward to 9 years later, it finally happened! Amazing, right? #cheesy? hahaha!
And so I'm more than satisfied to finally check El Nido in my bucket list! But seriously, if our time and finances will give us a chance, Lou and I will certainly visit this paradise again! ♥
Gusto ko yung upuan ni Lou... relax na relax!
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